Edward John Eyre (after whom Eyre Peninsula was named) has many monuments and plaques across the countryside.
On our way to Streaky Bay, we stopped at Eyre’s Waterhole (Aboriginal name – Cooeyanna) and while the water in it today looks not very inviting, it would have been most appreciated back in the day. And most likely of better quality – such is the price of ‘civilisation’.
This invention helped to build the roads in the district!
You can see that it’s limestone country. Fred looks but didn’t feel inclined to go any further.
There’s a really nice parking area just off the highway, very large and with some light shade. Just perfect for an afternoon snooze after doing the exploring …… 🙂
Continuing the story of my recent travels across Eyre Peninsula, South Australia, is my visit to Secret Rocks. All I knew about it was the name on the map…… but as I’m keen on rocks of any description, it was sufficient to pique my interest. Sometimes I research a place, but other times prefer to simply let it unfold.
I turned off the Lincoln Highway……. Secret Rocks is 2/3rds along the unsealed road which meets up with the Eyre Highway in north-westerly direction. Now unsealed roads can vary greatly in their condition, from well-maintained traversed in top gear, to low-gear bone-shakers……………
BoneshakerCorrugations……
Unfortunately, the section from the Lincoln Highway got worse the further along I went, and there was no point by then of turning back, so it was a matter of slowly chugging along at 5-10kms p/h, listening to everything in the van protesting – including Frank being very vocal about communicating his displeasure!
At one point, another vehicle overtook me, but that was the only other vehicle I saw the whole time…. tick tock tick tock….
Eventually, hurray! There’s the sign pointing to Secret Rocks! There’s a nice parking area, and we found the vehicle which had overtaken us was parked there. Fred had a brief pit stop, and then I went on alone to explore.
I was most surprised by all that I found, as I’d no idea Eyre Peninsula had such interesting formations, and further into the trip I found more.
In general, the land is fairly flat, so any rises are most welcome to get a broader view of the area.
The crevices and folds in the rock, captures moisture, and provides a wonderful habitat for vegetation.
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Delicate native ferns in particular grow here.
Not the best of photos sorry, but you get the idea of it. Slightly different from another plant that grows nearby.
Spikes
There was also another soft leaved plant I didn’t recognise.
On reaching a high point on the rock I came across the occupants of the vehicle parked below. A lovely young couple on University break from Adelaide, who were visiting the region.
David and Michelle.
We chatted for a while, then they continued further up the rock and as time was getting on, I headed down to continue the journey.
It’s one of those places I’d like to return to, as there’s much more to explore there.
Back onto the boneshaker…… and to our great relief the road was much improved from then on to the Lincoln Highway. Obviously I’ll be using that direction on any return visits! All part of the learning and experiencing life on the road 🙂
One of the small towns I visited on Eyre Peninsula is Darke Peak. The town, like many others, has been renamed from it’s original name. In this case it was proclaimed Carappee (a place of water) in 1914, then in 1940 it was changed to Darke Peak after John Charles Darke, the first European who explored the area in 1844.
Typical farming country, of sheep and cereal with the grain silos dominating the townscape.
Well, apart from the Hotel. At one time, it recorded the highest SA beer consumption per population ratio – aussies who take their beer drinking seriously!
Not so serious, are the hi-jinks the locals have got up to……the first Hellbent hotel was talked of on New Years Eve 1979 so that the drinkers would have another place to go to once they were kicked out of the Pub at closing time…. and by daylight 1980 the first new hotel was finished.
While planning the Legends Weekend for October 2009, it was decided to rebuild the Hellbent Hotel in honour of the occasion, and here it stands today. A typical example of what a mob of blokes can get up to out bush 🙂
The population of Darke Peak is about 50 people.
A big attraction to the area is the highest point on Eyre Peninsula, Carappee Hill (495 metres) and Carappee Hill Conservation Park. The Park also has a camping ground with bush trails and toilets. Sadly, due to my four-legged mates, I can’t go to these places.
It is a sealed road from the Birdseye Highway turnoff at Rudall, and past the township is a well maintained dirt road, with not too many corrugations – unlike some others we took!
After I left Hawker last time, I eventually ended up at Rawnsley Park campgrounds. I had been heading to Blinman but as the day had crept forward I decided not to risk travel on kangaroo roads in fading daylight. It was a good choice, as even though it was still school holidays the staff found me a relatively quiet powered site and we were undisturbed.
That afternoon, with a little time before sunset, Fred and I took a walk up a steep hill where we could view the landscape better. We weren’t the only ones up there.
Fred began making a great deal of noise about this…… and got told to shut it. I’ve figured out since that he thinks he’s protecting me from them, so have tackled his behaviour differently with reasonable success.
It was a steep climb and I was glad to stop and admire the view along the way. It also kept pulling me upwards…
Looking down on the campground below, in a north westerly direction. Beyond the buildings is a long stretch where bush campers can setup for lovely private views. There are also a couple of toilets along the way but aside from that campers need to be self sufficient. In season, campfires can be lit if you have your own wood supply. I’m certainly hoping to return there at some stage.
This shows Rawnsley Bluff and the little Eco Village – high class accommodation for the wealthy. There is a walk to the top of the bluff but I passed on that 🙂
Don’t think this land is only grey/greens. This Cassia lights up the landscape especially in the light of the setting sun.
The type of view I love – no houses! 🙂
It was time to return to camp while it was still daylight as I didn’t fancy finding my way down the steep rocky path in the dark. It was a nice conclusion to a lovely day of exploring. It was also forecast to be frosty overnight and we needed to prepare for that.
Next morning despite the freezing conditions, Fred and I were out exploring at sunrise. More on that next time.
Today we’re back in Hawker, about to head north to Parachilna. It has changed a lot since I was there last and I”m curious to see the changes. There’s also an art exhibition I’m wanting to see. There’s unusually some rain around and I figure I may as well be nice and warm in the van travelling as sitting somewhere chilly 🙂
Eremophila's Musings 